Has fashion become about the PR stunts or is it still about the art of making clothes? Haute Couture fashion week starting in Milan was very interesting to me because what we saw wasn’t about the clothes (which I found to be somewhat underwhelming), but more about the theatrics of the entire experience. Don’t get me wrong, the experience MATTERS, and they say the devil is in the details, but for fashion connoisseurs and fashion nerds alike, is it not enough to appreciate the collection itself? Is the clothing worth the theatrics? Haute Couture is all about the art of fashion. Where has the art gone? It feels as though designers are bored and are buying into the marketing game, making them lose their lust for the clothes. It’s as if the marketing is more important than the clothes themselves. Are designers more concerned about their marketing with influencer campaigns, PR stunts, and whatever reaction they can get from the media good or bad? Let’s look at some examples.
Armani Prive relies on his association and dines out on past success. Only three looks, maybe that, made my list. With patterns that were somewhat disastrous and shapes that are average, it hit below the mark. Makes me wonder how much time is left for the remaining designer and brand.
Chanel was a yawner, both in design and production, but we already knew what to expect there. I mean, look at how much Margot Robbie is smiling since she isn’t wearing Chanel for press anymore!
Valentino was also very… meh. I find they’re using the same color palette with large ruffle dress designs we’ve seen before, and at this point, it’s a bit overdone. The large dresses have hit the red carpet over and over again since 2015. We need something different. Fendi was extremely underwhelming and dare I say— sloppy. The looks tasted like a flavorless French fry from In-and-Out. None of the fabrics looked like they fit properly. Like what is this?
This has nothing to do with the altiers themselves and those who work hard to make these clothes BY HAND, but rather poor design decisions. Seems like less time was put into the design and more into the production. The world is already being run by media and influencers, and I am disappointed in these major brands selling out to that.
However, we all know who did well at couture week. Schiaparelli was obviously a beautiful, really great show. Great pieces, great tailoring, and gorgeous work overall. The brand brought the heat and made clothes that are well tailored and provocative. But, it seemed the public, and the internet, weren’t concerned with that or what I am now calling the “in between” looks (the looks that didn’t make it to instagram). Rather they posted about what Kylie Jenner and Doja Cat wore. The majority of posts were about who showed up rather than the collection. How disappointing when there were pieces like this to follow!
Another brand who did well was Victor and Rolf. They brought a fun and innovative design that also showed up everywhere on the internet. They made media craze and made unique, artful clothing. They are a great example of being great at both design and production. They bring creative energy. Well done. This is what the goal really is! But, how can only one major brand understand this?
Has the overrun of society by the media led companies to totally change their designs based on what the media will perceive it, rather than the sheer art of making clothes? I am not saying there aren’t brands mastering this, but the scale has tipped for major brands that I am expecting more from. This is Haute Couture people! Let me remind everyone of the definition of Haute Couture. “Haute Couture is a much-misused phrase that actually has very specific rules for qualification. Translated literally, couture is French for dressmaking, while haute means high. These are garments created as one off pieces for a specific client. 19th century Englishman Charles Frederick Worth is considered as the father of Haute Couture and today members are selected by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. To qualify as an official Haute Couture house, members must design made-to-order clothes for private clients, with more than one fitting, using an atelier (workshop) that employs at least fifteen full time staff. They must also have twenty full time technical workers in one of their workshops. Finally, Haute Couture houses must present a collection of no less than 50 original designs — both day and evening garments — to the public every season, in January and July.” All that being said, I am over the easy and comfortable — it is uninspiring. Which is a sad sentence to write when the point of Couture is to focus on the art itself! Thankful for the brands that keep the vision, and be gone with the brands that are selling out to the media and press. From a person who is a geek for the clothes and the art, I expect more. Much more. Do better.
Haute Couture definition source https://www.businessoffashion.com/education/fashion-az/haute-couture#:~:text=Haute%20Couture%20is%20a%20much,pieces%20for%20a%20specific%20client.